When someone contacts us about restoring a piece of furniture or commissioning a new table, the first conversation usually follows a similar pattern. They describe the object, mention its history, and then pause. That pause is where the real questions live.

Over the years, we have noticed that most clients ask the same set of questions before they decide to move forward. Not because they are unsure, but because they want to understand what actually happens in the workshop. Below are the four questions that come up most often, along with the honest answers we give.

1. Can you restore this without losing its character?

This is almost always the first question. People are afraid that a restoration will erase the marks of use — the scratches, the darkened patina, the slight unevenness that makes an old piece feel alive. Our answer is yes, but with a condition: we do not sand down to raw wood unless the piece has structural damage that requires it. For most projects, we clean the surface gently, consolidate the existing finish, and apply a thin layer of gomalaca or wax. The piece keeps its history. You can still see where the drawer was opened thousands of times.

2. How long does a typical restoration take?

It depends on the size of the piece and the condition of the wood. A small side table with loose joints might take two to three weeks. A large armoire with missing carvings and deep cracks can take two months or more. We give a time estimate after the first inspection, and we update the client if we find unexpected issues — like old insect damage or hidden metal reinforcements that need to be removed carefully.

3. Do you use modern glues or traditional ones?

We use organic glues based on the traditional luthier school: casein glue and hide glue. These are reversible, which means a future restorer can undo our work without damaging the wood. Modern PVA glues are stronger, but they are also permanent. For antique furniture, reversibility matters more than raw strength. For new pieces, we sometimes use a combination — hide glue for the main joints and a small amount of epoxy for areas that take heavy load, like table legs.

4. What if the wood is too dry or cracked?

Dry wood is not a problem; it is a condition we work with. We measure the moisture content of every board before starting. If the wood is below 8% moisture, we humidify the workshop space gradually over several days before gluing. Cracks are repaired with butterfly keys made from the same species of wood, or with thin wedges if the crack runs along the grain. We do not fill cracks with putty or epoxy unless the piece is going to be painted — and we rarely paint.

These four questions cover most of the uncertainty that clients feel before starting a project. If you have a different question, we are happy to answer it during a consultation. The goal is always the same: you understand what will happen, and the piece gets the care it deserves.